Dunhuang and Mogao
Our ten days travelling have been a Dunhuang prelude. Mental and physical efforts in preparation for the enlightenment awaiting. In early times Dunhuang was the nexus of the Northern and Southern Silk Roads, and was a bowl which blended the ideas and people passing through the city. In more recent times, Dunhuang benefitted from its isolation from modern society and had not suffered some of the recent depredations of society. Today Dunhuang is a most complete historical record of Dunhuang, Buddhism and Buddhist Art of the 4th to 10th centuries.We were very fortunate to have the benefit of some resources of the Dunhuang Foundation and the Dunhuang Academy to guide us through the Mogao Caves and the Western Thousand Buddha Caves of Dunhuang.
From Turfan to Dunhuang
On to Dunhuang. As usual for us we are leaving the TuHa Petroleum Hotel in Turfan early to catch the train to Dunhuang. Even though we planned to leave at 9 AM for a 1040 train, leaving over an hour to get through security, we still had breakfast and caught a taxi at 8:50 and arrived at the station at 9:15. As before, the line for security to gain access to the station was long and noisy. In this case, more westerners that locals.
Bazeklik Grottoes
About a 45 minute drive from Turfan is Bezeklik Grottoes. The drive passes the famous Flaming Mountains which are red in sunlight. Flaming Mountains were on the Journey of the Monkey King, the popular version of the story of the monk Xuanzang “Journey to the West.”
Turfan / Turpan / Tulufan
Flew from Kuqa back to Urumqi. Not much of a problem figuring out which plane returned to Urumqi. It arrived from Urumqi at 9 AM and it was the only plane on the tarmac so it was clear when we boarded which plane to take.
Subashi and Lunch
Subashi is a site of ancient Buddhist Monastery, active between the 3rd and 9th centuries. Kuqa being a major crossroads between the South and North Silk Road routes was an early major Buddhist center. It has been said that Buddhists on the Silk Road would stop at Subashi for months to hear sermons.
Kuqa Foods and Vendors
Photos:
Melon Vendor
Potato Vendor
Potato Vendor
Local Produce - Raisins, nuts and dates.
Local Produce – Raisins, nuts and dates
Subashi and Lunch
Photos:
Subashi
Sandstone Ruins in Subashi
Lamb piled on Uighur Bread
Spicy green bean lunch dish
Spicy Noodle Lunch Dish
Kizil Caves
Kizil are the better known of the Kuqa caves. They are about 50 miles from the city of Kuqa and quite into the mountains. They are on the Muzat River. They date from the 3rd to the 8th centuries. There are 269 existing caves in the Kizil group.
Even driving you get the feeling of isolation that the monks were seeking. You are driving through the Tarim Basin of sandstone cliffs with jagged edges jutting upwards at steep angles. After the last mountain you come upon the Muzat River and the valley where the monks found peace and isolation.
On to Kizil Caves
Photos: D
Drying peppers at road side.
Mountainous route to Kizil
Kizil Entrance
Walking to the East Caves
Kissing Under Kizil
Kumtura
Kumtura is a lesser known Buddhist Grotto in the Kuqa region. It dates from the 5th or 6th century. It has about 112 caves. The caves are in three periods, the first of the period of the Kuqa Kingdom is heavily influenced by the Gandarian Style with a central pillar. The second period is of the 7th and 8th centuries with the Grand Anxi Militant Government Period. The third phase is the Uighur Period from the 9th century and after.
On to Kuqa
Another early wake up call, today at 5 AM to catch the flight to Kuqa at 8 AM. Cab was waiting at 6 AM and he first asked for 80 RMB for the trip. When we arrived the ride was 30 RMB I knew he was high so I countered with 50 RMB which he accepted. Arrival at the airport terminal I gave him 50 RMG and he said I owed him 80 RMB. Not to be intimidated, and with enough Chinese to argue, I told him he agreed to 50 RMB and if he did not accept I would call the police. This went back and forth for a bit and fortunately my loud voice can be very unpleasant even if my Chinese is not perfect. Finally, I offered his 10Y more as a way to conclude, for a total of 60 RMB.
In Urumqi
Sunday morning was scheduled for a trip to the market in Urumqi. JoAnn had expected something like the Kashgar Market which includes livestock, but Urumqi’s was a sedate inside market with the usual stalls for tourists. We wandered, avoiding the cashmere/Pashmina scarves, bought two Uighur caps for Rich, and were getting bored when we found the rug merchants in the basement.
Kumtura Photos
Photos of Cave 30 in Kumtura, Linked Caves in Kumtura – Connection and Tarim Basin, Kumtura, Sandstone Mountain.
Urumqi Street Food
Photos of … Bagels in Urumqi??? …JoAnn found her “street food” feast. One Kebob….Hawkers drumming up business.
On To Urumqi
A four thirty wakeup call and a 7:45 AM flight from Beijing to Urumqi. The hotel kindly had prepared a breakfast in a box for us to take. A four hour flight to Urumqi was very smooth. Wondering whether Chinese Airlines endeavor to fly differently that US carriers. The take off and flight path seemed very deliberate and comfortable.
On To China
The flight to Beijing was almost routine except for Anthony, my seat mate. We were seated in the first row of coach, a wonderful place with no seats in front and good stretching room. JoAnn and I were early, as usual, and seated aisle and middle. Getting close to final boarding the window seat was empty, every long distance travellers dream. But then comes the flight attendant leading….mother and infant. Every travelers dread. The thought of the screaming infant for 15 hours sent tremors. Further, the bassinette was hung on the wall at eye level and Anthony could sit up and stare at me with wonderment.
Boston to Beijing - Flying
The trip to the deepest part of China, the northern Silk Road, begins with a flight from Boston to Beijing. Non-stop it is fifteen hour fifteen minutes flying 6,728 miles, 10,820 kilometers if you prefer the metric system and like the bigger number. The Silk Road, even stretching it a bit from Rome to Beijing is only 5,045 miles, 8,120 Kms for those starting out from the Euro side. We can be sure the original Silk Road travellers took a year to travers a shorter distance than we cover in a bit more than a half a day.