Maiji Shan
Tianshui and Maiji ShanThe last segments of the trip require longer train rides.Tianshui which is a must see stop for the grottoes at Maiji Shan is not on a high speed rail line.Lanzhou to Tianshui is a six hour ride.Although we had “soft seat” this train is still not as comfortable a higher quality first class seating. Less leg room. Otherwise, it does give me lots of opportunity to work.Bless the portable computer with long life battery.
To Lanzhou and Beyond, Xiahe
Bullet train from Zhangye to Lanzhou. Lanzhou is a large city, a hub for transport to western China or Tibet. Train station was new and fortunately had escalators. No lugging baggage up and down stairs. My back appreciated the rest. Concern is that the station is so large that we will not find driver.
The Power of Hello - A brief story about a special person
The Power of “Hello”
Joann is quite a unique person, having agreed to this journey along the silk Road, sharing my vision and accepting my assurances as sufficient to embark. Still, as a reasonable person she began with some concern. It had not passed in Urumqi, and by Kuqa she had gained some confidence that the plans were working. Hotels, while not perfect were more than adequate, we were finding restaurants, and the sights were more than we had imagined.
From Turfan to Dunhuang
On to Dunhuang. As usual for us we are leaving the TuHa Petroleum Hotel in Turfan early to catch the train to Dunhuang. Even though we planned to leave at 9 AM for a 1040 train, leaving over an hour to get through security, we still had breakfast and caught a taxi at 8:50 and arrived at the station at 9:15. As before, the line for security to gain access to the station was long and noisy. In this case, more westerners that locals.
Bazeklik Grottoes
About a 45 minute drive from Turfan is Bezeklik Grottoes. The drive passes the famous Flaming Mountains which are red in sunlight. Flaming Mountains were on the Journey of the Monkey King, the popular version of the story of the monk Xuanzang “Journey to the West.”
Kuqa Foods and Vendors
Photos:
Melon Vendor
Potato Vendor
Potato Vendor
Local Produce - Raisins, nuts and dates.
Local Produce – Raisins, nuts and dates
Subashi and Lunch
Photos:
Subashi
Sandstone Ruins in Subashi
Lamb piled on Uighur Bread
Spicy green bean lunch dish
Spicy Noodle Lunch Dish
Kizil Caves
Kizil are the better known of the Kuqa caves. They are about 50 miles from the city of Kuqa and quite into the mountains. They are on the Muzat River. They date from the 3rd to the 8th centuries. There are 269 existing caves in the Kizil group.
Even driving you get the feeling of isolation that the monks were seeking. You are driving through the Tarim Basin of sandstone cliffs with jagged edges jutting upwards at steep angles. After the last mountain you come upon the Muzat River and the valley where the monks found peace and isolation.
On to Kizil Caves
Photos: D
Drying peppers at road side.
Mountainous route to Kizil
Kizil Entrance
Walking to the East Caves
Kissing Under Kizil
Kumtura
Kumtura is a lesser known Buddhist Grotto in the Kuqa region. It dates from the 5th or 6th century. It has about 112 caves. The caves are in three periods, the first of the period of the Kuqa Kingdom is heavily influenced by the Gandarian Style with a central pillar. The second period is of the 7th and 8th centuries with the Grand Anxi Militant Government Period. The third phase is the Uighur Period from the 9th century and after.
On to Kuqa
Another early wake up call, today at 5 AM to catch the flight to Kuqa at 8 AM. Cab was waiting at 6 AM and he first asked for 80 RMB for the trip. When we arrived the ride was 30 RMB I knew he was high so I countered with 50 RMB which he accepted. Arrival at the airport terminal I gave him 50 RMG and he said I owed him 80 RMB. Not to be intimidated, and with enough Chinese to argue, I told him he agreed to 50 RMB and if he did not accept I would call the police. This went back and forth for a bit and fortunately my loud voice can be very unpleasant even if my Chinese is not perfect. Finally, I offered his 10Y more as a way to conclude, for a total of 60 RMB.
In Urumqi
Sunday morning was scheduled for a trip to the market in Urumqi. JoAnn had expected something like the Kashgar Market which includes livestock, but Urumqi’s was a sedate inside market with the usual stalls for tourists. We wandered, avoiding the cashmere/Pashmina scarves, bought two Uighur caps for Rich, and were getting bored when we found the rug merchants in the basement.
Kumtura Photos
Photos of Cave 30 in Kumtura, Linked Caves in Kumtura – Connection and Tarim Basin, Kumtura, Sandstone Mountain.
Urumqi Street Food
Photos of … Bagels in Urumqi??? …JoAnn found her “street food” feast. One Kebob….Hawkers drumming up business.
Silk Road - Starting Out
Seven days until we leave for China’s part of the Silk Road. Quite an itinerary. “Thirty Caves in Thirty Days.” Actually 10 cities in 22 days and 9 cave sites with hundreds of caves at each site. Start from the far west, Urumqi, we’ll trek eastward to Luoyang. Plane, train, boat, car and camel plus some hiking and maybe a donkey. The big stuff is set. Hotels, trains, and planes are reserved. On site details will depend on conditions. We’ll be flexible.