Koh Ker or The fall from Grace or The Graceless Fall
The seven tier pyramid tower at the western end of the Prasat Thom temple in Koh Ker. An astounding view as you walk along the path and then the view, bounded by the stone portal. A stunning view so wonderfully designed that you only see the imposing pyramid when you approach the portal. As you walk on the lower level, with the high wall you are not aware until the moment the door is approached.
Before King Jayavarman IV came to power, ruled 928-941, he broke away and created a capital, Koh Ker, north of the current capital of Angkor. It was probably the area he ruled and had sufficient military strength to defend his breakaway capital from the existing capital in Angkor. It was not an optimal area for a capital since it is in a region not especially fertile which is a criteria if a Capital city is to have many people. During King Jayavarman IV short reign he sponsored building of many temples. In addition to Prasat Thom it is estimated that there are 169 archeological remains including 79 smaller, individual temples in the region. Many are brick, but Prasat Thom is the largest pyramid temple of 118 feet. His reign was one of the most peaceful and productive of the Khmer culture. The culture moved from king focused to a focus on kingdom and the people. He created cultural routes that connected all corners of the Khmer empire and beyond to cultural centers across SE Asia. Jayavarman IV’s son Harshavarman II who reigned until 944 died and his successor moved the capital from Koh Ker back to Angkor.
An old man of 78 wandering for days among temples and rubble is a formula for eventual disaster. In this case, in awe of the view through the portal to the imposing pyramid, I lost awareness of the steps and probably fell from the fourth step down to the pile of rocks to the right. I met history personally, on my tush.
Ah, did I get a crowd of onlookers. Blood was literally flowing from gashes on my elbows, yet a kindly lady offered me two band aids to try to help. Many people offered help. The poor old, addled man. But as a true curmudgeon, “No, No,” I can get up myself. I was kidding, myself. And when the guard offered a chair I gladly pulled myself up to take an accounting. Blood, lots. Pain, really lots. But it seemed all parts functioned. After five or ten minutes I recovered a bit.
The Guard asked if I wished to return to the entrance where my driver waited, of course, Mr. Stubborn said, “No, I wish to go to the pyramid and take pictures.” So, I walked, the Guard on my side petrified that I would fall again, and walked around the pyramid.
Behind the pyramid was an amazing wall,
The outer enclosure wall of laterite of the Prasat Thom Temple.
Next Week Medical Follow Up
I fell on Sunday March 5th but being stubborn I decided that I could be more confident of hospital in Bangkok, my next stop, in a week.
A week of living on Advil but I did get some work done, established the format for hand-over reports for WMF as they transfer the project and the documentation of the conservation work, in this case for Preah Khan to the local agency, APSARA.
Arrived in Bangkok and immediately asked my WMF Manager to take me to the hospital, SamitiveJ, which was recommended. My Manager, Waraporn Suwatchotikul, so generously and without hesitation took me there.
X-Ray showed two broken ribs and of course lots of abrasions but nothing requiring stitches. The doctor did not see any need to return to the US, recovery in Thailand as good as in the US, and the WMF so kindly allowed me to remain at their guest house and work at my leisure.
At Prasat Pram
Before leaving the Koh Ker, we stopped at one of the other temples in the area. Prasat Pram, a small site of brick buildings with a single laterite outbuilding, to the right. Structurally similar to those we have seen at 9th to 10th c buildings at Rolous. The interesting note is to see the buildings enveloped by trees and roots. Most likely holding the building together and not to be removed.
Thailand and its People
Thirty years ago, I briefly visited Thailand. My take away was, “what lovely and kind people.” Thirty years of growth, urbanization and the internet have not diminished the inherent kindness of the people. My host, Waraporn, told me when I apologize for the distraction of going to the hospital, “Your health is most important.” Not a moment of hesitation or objection about her “personal schedule.” It is a lesson about kindness.