Early Temple - Bakong

                Roluos was an ancient center of Khmer civilization prior to Angkor.  It was established in the ninth century by the King Jayavarman II.  Now it is a small town not far from Angkor Wat.  In the town of Roluos there are three major temples built in the 9th to 10th century.  They represent the earliest temple forms and we can see the connection with Phnom Bakheng which was in the early 10th Century.

                Roluos is about 6 or so miles from the town of Siem Reap, and since I knew nothing about public transportation I figured I would just go in the street and hail a Tuk Tuk.  These common conveyances throughout Asia.  A motorcycle pulls various sorts of trailor for passengers.  Think the motorcycle sound may come out as Tuk Tuk to some ears.  Lots of creativity in the design of the people carrier.  I went to the street and stopped four and none of the drivers understood.  The fifth understood and spoke enough English to start me on my journey.  His name is Nag, which is pronounced Na because the “g” is not spoken. 

                The three temples in the area are Bakong, Prea Ko and Lolei about 6 miles from the town of Siem Reap.  It was more than 30 minutes to our first temple Bakong. 

                Traffic in Siem Reap is quite uncontrolled.  The expectation of total situation awareness and courtesy is demanded since traffic has no controls.  And there ae many scooters, motorbikes, Tuk Tuks cars, trucks and bicycles merging, making turns and shooting into traffic from side streets.  One reason I left the bike at the WMF headquarters.

                Bakong is a  temple mountain built on an artificial mound, compared to Phnom Bakheng built later which is on a hill of stone.  The style of the temple, as a mountain recreates Mount Meru, the sacred mountain of Hinduism, but also Jainism and Buddhism. It is the home of gods. Four levels correspond to the levels of mythical beings, and the top, fifth level is the home of the gods.

Architecturally note the narrowing staircase as you move upwards. Unfortunately, the humid climate supports the growth of moss on the buildings darkening them terrible.

On either side of the entrance way are two large brick structures. It is claimed that they are libraries, but could also be shrines to a god. This is a research project for me

Brick building to the left at West entrance of Bakong.

Decorations on Brick building to left of west entrance of Bakong.

There are quite beautiful carvings on either side of the door, but really wonderful and detailed carvings on the lintel(above the main door).

In the rear of the central temple were very different brick buildings, with vents at the top. It is said that these were crematoria, which is traditional Hindu death ritual.

Brick structures at rear of Bakong (possibly crematoria)

I HOPE TO ADD A PHOTO SOON.