Luoyang

Multiple niches in Luoyang

Luoyang and Longmen Grottoes Longmen Grotto in Luoyang is one of the four major Grottoes in China.We have visited two already, Mogao in Dunhuang and Maiji Shan near Tianshui. Unfortunately, on this trip we will miss Yungang Grottoes in Datong. Which gives us an excuse to visit again.

Luoyang is different than the other sites, but it is possible that it is in the presentation of the caves.Kumtura, Kizil, Bezeklik, Mogao and Western 1000 Buddha Caves focused on larger caves which could include many people even to the size of caves for larger assemblies of worshipers.Luoyang, like Maiji Shan, were mostly niches, which housed small and very large statues.Few of the “caves” in Luoyang appeared large enough to allow large assemblies of worshipers. I would call most of the work at Luoyang, niches. However, while we were allowed inside Mogao and others, Luoyang was only viewed from the outside, and the majesty of the cave may be lost.

What is most impressive about Luoyang is the quantity of sculptures. Every available cliff space is occupied by some sculpture. Between niches are marvelous miniature carvings. The wonderment at the extent of the work is startling. Your eyes roam away from a major figure and then is confronted with some marvelous miniature with exquisite detail.

Luoyang was an ancient capital of China in the Northern Wei Dynasty (386-534) when it moved east from Xi’An. The earliest caves at Luoyang date from the Norther Wei Dynasty, the early sixth century. The Longmen Cliffs are on the bank of the YI River. The western cliffs have the greatest number of carvings including the largest, the Fenxian caves. They claim over 2,000 caves and niches and over 100,000 statues.

It does seem that the earliest caves are in the Northern portion of the Longmen Grotto, closest to the city and newer caves were sculpted later. There are three Binyang caves. The central cave is the oldest, Northern Wei, about 523 AD. The Buddha in this cave has facial features typical of Northern Wei, elongated face, slimmer body a quite a humorous smile, the robe covering both shoulders and flowing robes with many folds. Buddha is flanked by his disciples, Kapsyapa and Ananda.

North Binyang cave, to the right of the central cave was begun in Northern Wei but finished in Tang Dynasty. This cave has the Buddha’s right hand in the Kapitthaka mudra, two fingers pointing upward, “removing fear.South Binyang Cave was also begun in the Northern Wei Dynasty but completed in the Tang.

The major sculpture are in the Fengxian cave which is about 30 m x 40 m (100 feet by 130 feet).The central Buddha is 17 meters, about 56 feet tall. The cave was commissioned by Empress Wu Zeitian and it is said that the Buddha resembles the empress. She was the most powerful woman in China since her husband, the Emperor, Gaozong, has a stroke and was incapacitated. Five figures are in this cave, two flanking on each side. On the northern side, the side accessible from the city of Luoyang are two Guardians, Vajripani first with quite a fierce look and strong pose, and then Vaisravana who is holding the protective stupa and is poised standing upon a vanquished earth spirit. On the right of Buddha are two disciples, Ananda and Kapsyapa, Kapsyapa quite destroyed and a Bodhisattva.

The view for the east side of the river has a good view of the magnitude of the effort in carving the Longmen Grotto.