Jiayuguan

Police Guard, 21 Oct 2016

Next Stop – Jiayuguan

Another early wake up to catch an 0730 train from Dunhuang to Jiayuguan. Lucy and driver picked us up at 0700 and we got to the station with plenty of time. Joann and I who want to get places with plenty of time to spare were panicked. We cleared the security at the terminal and were on the train at 0730.

We had reserved a soft sleeper because only second class seats were available. Our first opportunity. JoAnn had heard bad things about sleepers and was really reluctant, a reason we did not do any overnight trains. It was a pleasant surprise.The compartment had four bunks, two lower and two uppers. We had the adjacent lowers and were alone for this segment.

The compartment was clean and they change the sheets each time a person leaves the train. Although Joann was reluctant, and a bit concerned when we got into the compartment, in fact we both fell asleep quite easily. Maybe next trip we can do longer train rides, overnight. Arrived in Jiayuguan on time.OOOPS. In picking up my backpack, I strained a muscle.

The usual taxi cab mob at the exit at Jiayuguan station. The first person offered the ride to the hotel for 6 RMB, about 90 cents, so we went with him. Of course, his bigger agenda was to be hired for the day to take us to the sites. We then negotiated from 180 to 100 RMB for the rest of the afternoon. JoAnn argued that Lonely Planet said it should be only 50 RMB. Alas, I can’t win.

This was not a good day. It was getting cold and windy and I wasn’t feeling great. We went to the Great Wall. This is the segment in the west of China where the Great Wall begins. Cold, windy and found that the segment had been rebuilt in the 80’s and looked new. We had climbed to the top of the Great Wall segment near Beijing but now I had lots of reasons not to climb too high here.

The next stop, the Fort at Jiayuguan and relics parks were equally not exciting, although there was a nice museum on the premises.The Holiday Inn Plaza in Jiayuguan was a five star hotel. Sadly, we were there for only one night.Across the street from the hotel was a promising street with small restaurants. Our criteria is a restaurant that has many people. This one was crowded, but smoky. After the smokers left, the restaurant air improved. The food was wonderful.The next morning we went to Weijin Tombs, a site from the Wei and Jin dynasties. The lone excavated tomb in the cemetery. A brick lined staircase downwards about 30 feet. Entered into a chamber with wonderful art work, clearly very early, 2nd to 4th century. The images were of daily life, hunting, cooking farming. Figures were outlined and use of red and black were dominant colors.

The tomb had three chambers. The connecting passages were of decreasing height. The first entry I could bend over, by the third I had to crawl. The first, entry chamber, was of good height, with vaulted ceiling of bricks. Each image was on a single white brick with multiple bricks telling the story of daily life. The second chamber was slightly smaller but also was decorated with images on bricks. This also had a brick vaulted ceiling. The third chamber, the burial chamber, was low ceilinged and shaped like a coffin. No decoration in this chamber.

Returned to town and since we were very early for the train at 1645 I managed, in Chinese, to exchange tickets for the earlier 1345 train. No extra charge, but better we changed from a second class to a first class seat.By now, my back was hurting and carrying luggage upstairs would have been a tremendous burden. JoAnn convinced me, and everyone knowing me would understand that it was a hard task, to ask for help. I approached the woman at the train entry. She was very sympathetic, maybe my Chinese lessons were effective, and offered help. When time for the train departure arrived, three policemen carried our luggage to the train platform. They are always so helpful.

Two hours later we arrived in Zhangye station. JoAnn elicited help from some younger people to carry luggage down the stairs. JoAnn is wonderful in getting help.